Cold.

I got back on the trail the day after taking a zero in Franklin. I had a hot breakfast while I waited out some morning showers. I was able to get a ride from Gale, who volunteers to take hikers back up to Winding Stair Gap from town. She picked me up within 5 minutes of calling her, and she was an absolute saint.

Day 11 was planned to be a slow day, but not necessarily an easy one. It was still raining when I got to the trail, and the temperature was dropping. There was a frost warning for that night. I was both dreading and curious about how my gear would hold up. I wanted to use that night as a trial run for the Smokies since they are notoriously unpredictable.

I think the late start, the cold rain, and the new shoes caused me to move slowly. The trail was remarkably quiet, too. I only passed four hikers total on my way to Wayah Shelter. The forecast all week pegged this day as a total rainout, which I think caused a lot of hikers to plan a zero day. I knew it wasn’t going to be too bad and clear up by the afternoon; I had miles to gain. No rain, no pain, no Maine.

The climb up Wayah wasn’t too bad and had spectacular 360-degree views of the mountains. This was also my first good look at the Smokies. There were a few other hikers at the shelter as well. I decided to pitch a tent to test how warm I would be. I cooked a simple dinner of ramen, mashed potatoes, and bacon bits. I hung my food bag (still average). Then I called it a night after a casual 11-mile day.

Day 12 was a great day. I slept well and stayed warm. I think I’m in great shape for the Smokies. The temperature was 29 degrees, which made it hard to get out of my toasty sleeping bag. However, once I got out, my body started moving quickly. I had planned a 16-mile day, including two moderate climbs with a big 3,000-foot descent to end the day.

My morning routine just keeps getting more efficient, and my strategy of taking the first three miles slow is, I feel, very beneficial. The climbs up Rocky Bald and Wesser were a breeze. I ran into a few families, and each one was asking if I was going to the Nantahala Outdoor Center, or NOC. This place is an outdoor community center that’s right off the trail. Now, I was planning to stop a mile before it, but once I was told they had a restaurant and general store, I made the decision to go the extra mile.

The big descent was gnarly. There were a few spots where it was basically three-to-four-foot drops of boulders in order to navigate the trail. During the six-mile, 3,000-foot descent, the foliage started to thicken, and the green was filling in. Spring had started at this lower altitude.

The vibes at NOC were incredible. Right off the trail, there’s a restaurant, outfitter, general store, and a line of chairs right off the river. I immediately ran into Ketchup (of course), who greeted me with a piece of pizza. It turned out that he was staying in a bunk room with an extra bed. Great! I got a place for the night.

I arrived at NOC around 3:00 p.m. and basically just hung out, got some food and ice cream, and spent the rest of the afternoon socializing with fellow hikers. Oh, I also obtained my permit for the Smoky Mountains, which I plan to enter either late Wednesday or early Thursday.

I am currently at NOC, mile 137 of the Appalachian Trail.